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City of gold

9/26/2019

Its fascinating how often a very small thing can change the course of history.

Mrs Kennedy and Mrs Farrell were chatting away, as friends do, while doing their washing in a Bendigo creek, blissfully unaware that their their lives were about to change forever. What began as a very ordinary washing day changed when they discovered alluvial gold nuggets in the creek bed and a gold rush began that saw 5,500 people descend upon Bendigo over the following three years.

From 1851 the landscape became dotted with poppet heads and mine workings as people from Australia, Cornwell, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, America and China rushed to make their fortune. More gold was found in the region from 1850 to 1900 than anywhere else in the world. By 1930, 100,000,000 pounds worth of gold had been found.

It’s an era that still lives on strongly in the fabric of current day Bendigo. Huge, elegant homes which once belonged to those who struck it rich, mine owners and managers, still look out over the city. And row upon row of the small cottages where miners lived, are a great reminder of those far off gold rush days. They made Bendigo what it is today.

If you want a taste of underground life as it was for the miners, you can still take a tour at the Central Deborah Gold Mine, even descending 288 metres down in an old miner's cage if you're game.

The Shamrock hotel began its life in 1854 as the Exchange Hotel. It included a Cobb and Co office and a concert hall caterering for the miners. In 1855 it was renamed the Shamrock and hosted Lola Montez. The diggers were said to have thrown gold nuggets at her feet.

Now the second largest of Victoria’s regional cities, Bendigo has treasured its very grand, gold rush heritage buildings. They stand as a testimony to the riches of the era and have made Bendigo one of the most picturesque of Victoria’s inland cities.

Its parks and gardens add to the graceful atmosphere of the city. The conservatory on the edge of Rosalind Park is the only surviving example of a nineteenth century conservatory in a public park in Victoria. In spring it's surrounded by a vast array of tulips and in summer the rose gardens are truly magnificent. Its hard to imagine that this was built on land once covered in puddling mills, shafts and mine waste.

Another mine was transformed into an ornamental lake (Weroona Lake) and reserve of 18 hectares. Walks and picnic areas surround the lake and its the perfect spot for coffee or a meal at the restaurant on the lake edge, enjoying the tranquil vista.

Chancery Lane is one of the many quirky spots in town to eat, drink or shop. And Bendigo has some of the best restaurants, cafés and fresh produce in any regional town. Its multicultural heart has provided a fascinating mix of eating options.

If you love historic trams and music, there's The Blue's Tram, where you can relax with a drink, listen to the Blues and Roots and take in the wide streetscapes and grand architecture. Or take a trip on the hope-on and hop-off vintage talking tram.

And if its culture you love, then Bendigo's art gallery is the oldest and largest regional gallery in Australia.

In late 1800s what had been a Corn exchange was transformed into a Town Hall "befitting a city of gold" by William Vahland. William commissioned Otto Wachatz, who was fresh from decorating the Royal Palace in Copenhagen, to design the interior.

I love the way the history of Bendigo still lives on like the heartbeat of the city, a thread running through the fabric of everyday life. The past hasn't been forgotten as it has in so many Australian cities but has become a part of its vitality and allure.

Bendigo is just two hours from Melbourne and beyond Bendigo are lots of historic and fascinating towns to explore - barely an hours drive to Echuca, on the Murray River and the wonderful paddle steamers, another great part of Australia's history.

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Canowindra

6/13/2018

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Situated between Orange and Cowra, Canowindra is a historic town in cental western NSW dating back to the 1840s. Its a quaint mixture of time-stood-still, in the wonderful original architecture and well-preserved history, and unobtrusive modernity that's adding a fresh dimension to the charm of the town.

There's an artesian chocolate shop, stocking top quality chocolate from across Australia and soon to have a chocolate/coffee bar for discerning chocoholics. For those who are lamenting the passing away of so many bookshops in the city, there's a treasury of books in the village bookstore.

The bookshop is run my Jenny Cullane, a former police officer and lecturer at Goulburn Police Academy. Jenny's mother founded the business but when she was diagnosed with cancer, Jenny gave up her career and came to Canowindra to care for her mum and help with the store, which she now runs following her mother's death. With its pressed metal ceilings, rare and second hand books, its just the place to find a treasure. Jenny said, "People come in looking for a book they had as a child or that their mother or father had as a child and if you can find that book and supply it ... to see that smile is very rewarding".

There are interesting places to eat and a wide range of stores offering something quite different to the carbon copy retail outlets of the city. There's a warmth and friendliness that reminds you that country folk tend to have more time than city folks or is it just different priorities? They stop to say hello and have a chat and you get the feeling they are genuinely interested.

If you're a gardener you'll love Perennialle Plants, a nursery specialising in rare drought and frost resistant perennial plants. Chris, the owner, is a horticulturalist, passionate about rare plants. He has an inspiring garden where you can see how certain plants thrive in the extremes of heat and frost. As well as the nursery, Chris has a shop with artesian-made gifts for the garden and home ... unusual gift ideas for both men and women and your hard to buy for friend. You can't help but come away inspired.

Of course Canowindra is renown for Hot Air Ballooning with the International Hot Air Balloon Race held there each April. It's a chance to get up close and personal with balloons and their pilots and a truly exciting experience, whether you adventure up in one yourself or just get involved in the activities. The town comes alive with visitors, markets, buskers and reminders of the past. Its a far cry from 1863 when the infamous bushranger, Ben Hall, came to town and rounded up the entire population in the pub, but that's a distant memory.

Great music and lots of fun with these musicians who were busking on Saturday morning. I would love to have heard their stories, I can imagine they have some good yarns between them.

Probably the greatest thing about Canowindra is its community spirit. When one of its own had triplets diagnosed with a congenital form of muscular dystrophy and restrictive lung disease, locals rallied. Hundreds of thousands of dollars were raised and people from all over gave their time, skills and donations of building supplies to build a purpose designed home for the family. Now three gorgeous children can navigate their wheelchairs around a home specially designed for their needs. What a triumph for a small community with a commitment to care for each other.

I love the fingerprint of the past standing graciously at the end of the main street ... a reminder of the once vibrant industry that sustained the town. The silos and railway that served them now lay silent but it was truly beautiful in the early morning light.

Every community is a product of its past and an expression of its present moment as it evolves into its future. No moment is less important, each has its own lessons to be learned and valued as does each moment of our lives. Canowindra appears to be doing that well and I was the richer for enjoying both its gracious past and gentle footsteps into a new era.

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Just a dot on the map

5/29/2018

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I found it quite by accident. Just a dot on the map on the road from Orange to Forbes, one of those incidental places you pass through without even noticing, but to my surprise it’s a town with a fascinating history.

Eugowra is a pretty little town consisting of just a handful of shops, a pub, museum and general store. It has a total population of 530, but as I discovered it wasn’t always like that. Dotted around the town are significant buildings that give a hint to its much larger past and on the walls are murals telling their history. Other murals are painted on billboards that stand at important historical sights where buildings once stood, long gone but not forgotten.

As I wandered around the town, enticed by murals beckoning from every corner, I realised that this sleepy little town was once a thriving community of sheep farmers, timber getters and granite miners. It throbbed with families whose Saturday afternoons were spent watching The Wizard of Oz at the local theatre, men who went to war and young couples who married and created homes. But then came economic downturn and people moved to larger regional cities to find jobs and the town slowly died.

The story of Eugowra began way back in 1834 when a bush station was established on what was then the route taken by bullock drays on their way to the Lachlan goldfields, and Cobb and Co coaches carrying gold back to Orange and Bathurst. In June 1862 Eugowra suddenly became front page news when the infamous Frank Gardiner and his gang of bushrangers, including Ben Hall, staged Australia’s largest ever gold robbery. They held up and robbed a stagecoach carrying 84.56kg of gold and 3,700 pounds in cash. Only a portion was ever recovered.

A few years ago Jodie Greenhalgh became part of the story of Eugowra. She is a graphic designer with a heart to bring life back into the town and she had a wild idea. Jodie suggested a series of murals telling the story of Eugowra’s past. They set about finding sponsors, paint, and artists, sign writers and graphic designers from across Australia willing to be part of the project.

In the first year 30 artists began to tell the story with brushstrokes on bricks, metal and wood. From bushrangers to rusty cars and the click of the shearers shears, the story unfolded. Two years later there were 65 artists, each one becoming part of the bigger story, and it isn't finished yet. Now tourist coaches stop and people like me are coaxed from their cars, and the town is breathing again. I love the power of a small idea!

I drove home wondering what the gallery of my life would look like, what would be included and how would the artist depict it?

We each have an individual story that's unique and we each contribute that story to others in our life ... to siblings and parents, life partners, children and friends. We enlarge each other's story and ours in the process. But in the upcloseness of immediacy, within the parameters of our own world, it's hard to see the bigger picture.

Just last week a friend reminded me that about 35 years ago I introduced her to the author, George MacDonald and began for her a love affair with his books. Now she is watching her children come to love his stories too. Day by day we throw pebbles into a pond unaware of where the ripples will lead. We don't just cook a meal for our family, create a home or have coffee and a conversation with a friend, we are investing in people's lives and trust that God will take our small investments and paint them into the bigger picture we don't yet see.

My life and yours probably won't ever be depicted in a gallery but can I encourage you to record it in some way so those who follow after you might see the bigger picture ... will understand how your life was a part of who they are ... maybe catch a glimpse of the ripples on the pond you set in motion.

I was privileged to write the history of the suburb where I live. Over four years, I sat and talked with folk who'd lived the history. By the time the book was launched, some of those people had died and their story would have died with them but thankfully it is now recorded for generations to come.

You don't have to write a book, you can narrate it in your own voice and record it - what I would give to hear my father's voice today! It could be just a series of photos and captions and maybe you get the whole family involved because it's their story too, but whatever you do, leave a witness to your life for those who follow and a testimony to the hand of God in your life.

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Escaped

5/1/2018

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Six months ago I broke my ankle. In six months I've learnt the skill of moon boot walking, got to know my physiotherapist very well and discovered the frustration of life with limitations.

But probably the most valuable part of those months is coming to understand a little more about the power of acceptance ... a response that receives rather than resists what is happening ... it changes everything. I've now graduated to a sports ankle brace and while I've been told it will be another six months before the bone is back to full strength, I'm beginning to feel the wind beneath my wings.

One of the things I missed most was getting out with my camera into big wide-open spaces and finding unexpected beauty. Last weekend I escaped! It was a great feeling, like the much awaited school holidays had arrived after the long winter term.

I headed for the village of Hill End to soak myself in the history and drink in the beauty of a bygone era. I'd made the bold decision to book into the Royal Hotel, despite reading many less than flattering reviews. I wanted the authentic Hill End experience and there was no better way to do that than to stay in the last remaining hotel which dates back to 1872.

At the height of the Gold Rush there were 29 hotels in town ... now the Royal stands as the last sentinel of the history, and alive with character ... creaking stairs, sloping floors and wallpaper from another century. Now just a faithful few frequent the bar and dining room but it wasn't hard to imagine the hustle and bustle that rang through the walls over its 145 year life and the din from the stamper batteries in the streets beyond.

Now there are just remnants ... reminders of an era that made Australia great. I marvelled at the tenacity and ingenuity it must have taken to survive life on those harsh mining fields. It's a testimony to man's indomitable spirit. But where there's a will there's a way and slowly a town grew. There was a draper's shop, an oyster bar attached to the newsagency, (oysters sent from Sydney - I think I'd have passed!), a dispensary, tobacco and fancy goods store and so much more ... it became a thriving metropolis.

The miners have long gone but their fingerprints are still evident ... in the handmade bricks that once put walls around a family's life, now scattered ... in the century old trees that offer shade from the summer heat, once seedlings planted long ago in anticipation ... and the hand hewn stones that grace the church that still remains today.

The road to Hill End is steep in parts and twists and turns frequently, much like the last six months of my life. I'm glad I've learnt over the years to focus on the journey and not just the end of the road. It's easy to rush to the destination and miss all the good things along the way.

Life is about the journey not the destination and often the detours and byways are more important.

In every twist and turn there's a discovery to be made and I never know what will be just around the corner but there's bound to be another gem if I have the eyes and time to find it.

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City of gold

Canowindra

Just a dot on the map

Escaped

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